Recently in Sunday Jog-Up Category

 

Do you ever stare in awe at the sleek shiny horses, the glistening brass, perfect braids, and dazzling white marks at a CCI trot up?  Do you ever wonder how they get that way?  (LOTS of hard work is the correct answer!)  Each Sunday morning we will bring you a little insider info on how the big-time grooms manage an upper level event horse.  Feel free to email or comment with specific grooming questions if you have a topic in mind!

Previous entries:    What About Tack? Part I , Part II

Shining, Shimmering, Splendid

A Close Shave

Get those white legs white!

                          Hoofcare

 

I promise I will get to the "glamor" topics like braiding and tails, but I am waiting for a good opportunity to do them justice.  Those entries will feature extensive illustrations, photos, and perhaps video of various techniques; right now my horses are embarrassingly furry and not suitable for public viewing.  When the weather warms up and the horses are closer to competition I will produce the necessary media to accompany the topics.  Braiding, especially, is something that is best learned through observation and not rambling incoherent sentences with stick-figure drawings.


Today, we will explore a collection of random hints and tips that aren't easily classified, but make your life a little better in some way or another.

Things like diapers and baby wipes.  Huh?  Disposable diapers make excellent padding for wrapping a bruised or abscessed foot; the 30-lb (kid) size fits most horses' feet.  Keep several in the trailer for shows in case your horse loses a shoe, until the farrier can fix it.  Baby wipes are very handy for touch-up spot removal, especially when you don't have time (or it's too cold) to give a bath.  Continuing in the child-care theme, baby oil gel is an easier, less messy way to shine up faces or hooves.   

Tape: duct and electrical.  Like most horse people, duct tape is one of my most favorite versatile items ever created.  It's like The Force: it has a light side, and a dark side, and it holds the world together.  I have about four rolls of it any given time: one at large, one in the grooming box, one in the stud kit, one in the trailer, etc.  And it now comes in colors!  Use a small piece of white duct tape on the cheekpiece of your show halter instead of a bridle number.  Use it to tie up unattended children* or to tape your trailer dressing room door shut when the latch breaks half-way through a 10-hr drive. (*ed. note: EN does not condone the capture or detainment of children.  Unless they are posing a safety hazard.  Or really obnoxious.) 

Contrary to common belief, electrical tape was not created for electrical wiring...it exists solely for the obsessive-compulsive eventer to label everything she owns.  All brushes, hoofpicks, buckets, scrapers, boxes, hooks, racks, anything that can be claimed by a half-inch strip of colored tape is so afflicted.  Colored duct tape may also be used, but beware its sticky residue; also, while identifying color is handy, gobs of 2"-wide neon duct tape is a little gaudy.  Black electrical tape is also very useful in tack repair, for missing strap keepers in particular.  I like to double the tape back on itself, so that there is no stickiness exposed to the leather strap itself.  Electrical tape, of course, is standard cross-country equipment to secure velcro on galloping boots, and to tape all strap buckles for three-days.  Again, while I like color as much as anybody, please don't go overboard on the super-color boot taping.  A little is nice, a lot is ugly.

 
Twine.  It's always helpful to keep some string around, whether it's from hay bales or just a roll from the hardware store-- keep extra in your tack box, don't just rely on a bale of hay you brought.  Use it to hang buckets, stall guards, tack hooks, and random items (like tarps, when it pours down rain right into your tent stall). 

Scissors.  Another item of which you can't really have too many.  Even labeled (yay electrical tape!) scissors frequently grow legs and walk off with your neighbors, leaving you to open a bale of hay with a set of car keys (MacGyver would be proud).  Keep a pair in your groom box, tack trunk, and trailer.  And a separate very sharp set in your braiding box that is ONLY used for braiding, and lent solely to trusted associates with the proper password and secret handshake.

Permanent markers.  The more the merrier.  Pens don't always write vertically on stall cards, if they write at all.  Use the sharpie to write your number on your labeled halter, and to create extra bridle numbers.  Save your old bridle numbers.  Flip them over, write your new number on the backside, and you now have a spare for schooling.  Or in case you lose the real one. 

Extra shoes.  If you've done a three-day, you know this drill already.  Save your horse's shoes each time they are replaced, take them with you to shows in case your horse loses one on course.  It's much simpler (and less risky!) for the show farrier to tack on a shoe that already fits your horse, instead of making a whole new one.  Use duct tape to keep each set together, and use your sharpie to label them with the horse's name and the date.

Stud plugs.  I really like the white foam ones; they're easy to insert (just push them in), and easy to remove (use a pointy pick, or old horseshoe nail).  But why I really like them?  I haven't had to buy stud plugs for about four years.  They come in packages of 100, punched out of rectangular stencils.  The leftover stencils still contain a LOT of material-- if you are committed enough to cut out each little piece, you can make about 40 more plugs from the stencils.  My farrier uses the plugs for his clients, and gives me his leftover stencils (he even saves them for me, stacks of 3 or 4 a month).  Even if you aren't blessed with such a conscientious farrier, you can still easily get double-duty out of the foam plugs by snipping the leftover stencils.

A hammer.  It's one of those things you rarely use, but you're really glad when you have it.  A good Pony Clubber checks her stall at every away show, looking for dangerous nails or staples.  Use the hammer to remove eye-poking pointy things.  Also handy to break ice off your back trailer doors when they're frozen shut.  And can pound-down a raised nail clinch when necessary.  I keep mine in the stud box, so I always know where it is.

Electrical cord and power strip.  Useful for hanging fans in the summertime, while also allowing you to plug in a radio, charge your cell phone, the video camera, etc.  Speaking of fans, keep some bungee cords around for wind-device installment.  Like twine, bungees have 1000 uses.

Chains and double-end snaps.  I have four or five 20" lengths of smooth-link chain leftover from my Pony Club days, when we weren't allowed to hang our water buckets with twine.  You can buy it at any Wal-Mart or hardware store.  Twine can sometimes break under load of a full bucket, spilling water everywhere and soaking your nice clean $8-a-bag shavings.  The chains won't break, and thus are also useful for stall guards, or as a little extra security latching the stall door at night.  Double-end snaps--you know what to do with these...anything you want.  Always have extras, because inevitably your stable buddy will have forgotten them.  (and label them with your tape, so you hopefully get them back!)

Speaking of chains... always have a chain shank in your trailer.  I know, Muffin is always so sweet and would never need such a torturous leading device.  But properly used, a stud chain can be a great enhancement to your safety when necessary-- a snorting wild horse dragging you around the showgrounds is most unsightly, not to mention dangerous.  And I have seen a gentle lip chain work miracles getting a stubborn beast onto a trailer, calmly and peacefully.  Along those lines, always have an extra halter in the trailer.  Muffin may never pull back when tied, but maybe you need to catch the loose horse that (was) tied next to you.  Be prepared for any situation, and you (or your neighbors) will thank yourself later.


Do you have any other can't-live-without random items?   Let me know what I forgot in the comment section!

 

Do you ever stare in awe at the sleek shiny horses, the glistening brass, perfect braids, and dazzling white marks at a CCI trot up?  Do you ever wonder how they get that way?  (LOTS of hard work is the correct answer!)  Each Sunday morning we will bring you a little insider info on how the big-time grooms manage an upper level event horse.  Feel free to email or comment with specific grooming questions if you have a topic in mind!

Previous entries:    What About Tack? (Part I)

Shining, Shimmering, Splendid

A Close Shave

Get those white legs white!

                          Hoofcare

 

What About Tack? (Part II)

Now THAT'S a shiny browband!  Hugh Knows at Rolex
www.useventing.com photo

Alright, I apologize in advance for the slight lack of creativity in this edition of Jog-Up (hey, not everything about grooming is fun and glamor).  Saturday, my usual writing day, was a Holy Day here in the Bluegrass, and I became overrun with ceremonial celebrations as College Gameday came to Rupp Arena.  I'm still a little light-headed, hoarse, and sore-handed from the record-breaking pep rally that morning.  But, never fear, I'm here to fulfill your quest for grooming knowledge with a little bit more about tack management. 

When I was a working student, we were taught a specific way to clean tack; it's pretty simple, but very effective.  I've continued that method for years, daily, with excellent results: clean, supple leather that lasts a lifetime.

Cleaning materials: small bucket of water; dish soap; scrubby sponge; washcloth.  Conditioning supplies: glycerine (melted into a tupperware tub*); Lexol conditioner; sponge.

Add a squeeze of dish soap to your bucket of water, and use this to wipe your tack down with the scrubby sponge.  Take bridles completely apart, remove stirrup leathers and irons from saddles.  Put bits and stirrups in the bucket to soak.  Wipe the damp leather with the washcloth to remove dirt and sweat.  Use plenty of scrubbing to remove grease spots ("jockeys" as pony club calls them); pay attention to the underside of particularly sweaty areas, like browband corners, breastplate chestpieces, and saddle skirts.

The dish soapy water does a good job getting leather clean, but it can leave it a little bit dry.  Pour a small amount of Lexol conditioner into a tub of glycerine* (instead of wetting it with water) and apply to leather with a sponge.  Use a bit more Lexol on the underside of leather, where it will be well-absorbed.  In humid areas, where leather tends to get a bit sticky or gummy, use conditioner more sparingly.  The Lexol and glycerine is very safe, won't rot stitching, keeps leather soft, and helps a little bit to repel water.  Be careful around rubber items-- reins, especially.  Leather conditioners of any kind are the leading cause of sticky rein death. 

Personally, I stay away from beeswax-based leather products.  The leather may feel supple, but also sticky.  And the stickiness inevitably attracts dirt, making more work later to clean it all off.  If you MUST use a "balsam" gooey conditioner, use it on a slick new saddle so at least it gives you some extra grip!

And finally... polish your hardware.  I've tried various polishes, cremes, pastes, liquids, but my favorite is NevrDull hands down.  The soaked-wadding polish is easy to use, less messy, and a can of it seems to last forever.  A little piece goes a long way, though it does create black fingers.  Applying the polish is only the first step, however.  Next you must spend plenty of time buffing and rubbing the metal with a clean cloth.  The polish merely breaks down the accumulated crud; your elbow grease and a rag actually removes it.  Even the greenest, dingiest brass can still be restored to a bright shine if you're willing to put in the effort.  For shows, make sure ALL your brass is gleaming-- halters, lead ropes, and those evil chain shanks.  I've yet to discover a quick and easy way to shine chains, without spending hours rubbing link by link, ending up with numb black fingers.  But one dull item seems to detract from all your other metal pieces, so put in the time!

*So what is this tub of glycerine?  Well, it's a bar of regular glycerine saddle soap, melted into a pint-sized, lidded plastic container (any tupperware or ziploc bowl will do).  Use a microwave, on low power setting, to melt the glycerine.  It will mold to the container's shape, harden into a block, making for very easy storage. 

Procedure for the melting process:
-Break bar in half, place in container.  Covering with lid at this stage is optional.
-Place container in microwave, on low setting.  Heat for ten seconds at a time.
-Nothing will happen.  Heat for another ten seconds.
-Repeat above.  Take bowl out, swirl gently.  DO NOT POKE WITH FORK OR SPOON!
-Repeat above.  It's getting softer.  Resist the urge to stir it, it won't help.
-Keep going, another 10 seconds.  Remember, no spoons!
-It's probably starting to liquefy, DO NOT TOUCH IT.  It is sticky, will burn your fingers.  Ask me how I know this.
-Another 10 seconds, swirl the bowl to encourage the molten liquid to cover the remaining hard lumps.
-Keep going, 10 seconds at a time, until it is completely liquefied. 
-Allow to cool overnight.  With the lid on, if you think a cat may get into it.

Now, why all the fuss about ten seconds?  Why not just put it in for a minute and leave it alone?  You're welcome to try it; but don't call me when there's glycerine all over your microwave and you're scraping it out with a butterknife.  As the glycerine gets hot, it bubbles viciously and will overflow easily; a break every ten seconds allows it to settle.  DO NOT TOUCH THE BUBBLES; they will burn your skin, and it is impossible to "tame" them with any sort of implement.  Ignore them, they will go away.  Your first melting project may not look very pretty (usually lumpy, off-colored), but it works just the same.  After a month of use it will be sufficiently smooth anyway.


Have fun, happy tack cleaning!  I will continue to bask in the cold, snowy glory of basketball excellence, but I promise to return with an in-depth grooming topic next week.

 

Do you ever stare in awe at the sleek shiny horses, the glistening brass, perfect braids, and dazzling white marks at a CCI trot up?  Do you ever wonder how they get that way?  (LOTS of hard work is the correct answer!)  Each Sunday morning we will bring you a little insider info on how the big-time grooms manage an upper level event horse.  Feel free to email or comment with specific grooming questions if you have a topic in mind!

Previous entries: 

Shining, Shimmering, Splendid

A Close Shave

Get those white legs white!

                          Hoofcare

                          

 

What About Tack? (Part I)

Now THAT'S a shiny browband!  Hugh Knows at Rolex
www.useventing.com photo

 

So your horse looks beautiful: now make sure nothing detracts from that picture.  Your tack should be spotlessly clean-- the leather should glow and the metal should gleam.  Often, less is more in the tack department: unless you have a specific need for added equipment, don't use it!  It's just one more thing you have to clean at the end of the day. ;-)

For trot-ups, a plain caveson noseband and simple snaffle bit is traditional attire.  Some people prefer a newmarket shank instead of reins.  Flash nosebands, while not as "classic," are quite common...mostly because it's already on the dressage bridle, and why buy a plain noseband purely for jogs unless you do a lot of FEI events?  You see a few figure-8s in the jogs, but it's generally less-preferred; it is not flattering to many horses' heads, and it's a more purpose-oriented tool (whereas the flash noseband has become almost "standard" for everyday riding).  To be most correct, make sure your reins do not have rein stops-- there's no "rule" about it, but plain reins give a nice clean look.  I have a set of "dressage reins" without stops, and "jumping reins" with stops.  I use my dressage set for jogs. 

Browbands.  This is your opportunity for a little added style.  Brass clinchers were all the rage in the late 90s through the 00's...but plain browbands are starting to come back in popularity.  Beads and rhinestones have set the dressage world ablaze, but thankfully (!!!) most eventers tend to pass on the sparklies.  I personally love the classic look of a brass browband-- traditional clinchers, or a moderate variation (wider, thinner, round, square, etc) to suit the horse.  It is most appropriate for grays to wear silver-toned metal instead of brass.  I'm not sure who came up with that "rule," but I agree with it; something about yellow-toned brass and a white horse just doesn't look as good.  Whatever accessorized browband you choose, be sure that it is absolutely, positively, radiantly shiny.  Nothing looks worse than a grungy, dull brass clincher.  It just screams, "I don't care about my appearance!"  Get the metal polish and get to work; even the most hopelessly greenish brass can usually be restored to a bright finish.

This idea of gleaming metal also applies to every other buckle on your horse.  Brass buckles on your bridle?  Congrats, you have more polishing to do!  Brass on the breastplate?  Yup, that too!  Of course, stainless steel should also be cleaned and buffed, but requires far less maintenance than its brass counterpart-- keep this in mind when tack shopping.  That brass-buckled bridle looks so pretty in the store...but not so much when it's been sitting in the trailer and the buckles turned green.  Brass IS beautiful, but it comes with the responsibility of keeping it polished!  [As an aside: I was "raised" to believe that excessive brass usage on flashy horse faces is tacky.  If your horse has a loud face, a big wide blaze and lots of white, he probably doesn't need the added pizazz of brass buckles everywhere.  He has enough to look at without artificial enhancement.  True, it really doesn't make a lick of difference...but that's ye olde traditionalist in me.]

Ok, enough with metal.  90% of our tack is LEATHER, which requires its own dedicated care.  I know all you good little Pony Clubbers clean your tack after EVERY RIDE (right guys?), as this is the best way to keep it in great condition.  This is especially important in the summer time ("sweaty season") and if you ride multiple horses a day.  Hopefully, you clean your tack at least weekly, and give it a really throrough detailing before shows. 

Take bridles completely apart; check buckles and bit attachments for signs of wear.  Remove stirrup irons and leathers from saddles, check stitching for safety.  When I was a working student/groom/manager for an Upper Level Rider, we cleaned tack and took it apart EVERY DAY.  One Friday before a local event, I was exhausted-- it had been a very long schooling day, and I *really* did not feel like taking everything apart to clean and put it back together...just as I had done the day before...but I did again it anyway.  And THANK GOODNESS I DID: on one stirrup leather of her jumping saddle, the cross-bar of the buckle had cracked.  The leathers were nearly new; stitching was perfect, leather was beefy; they were perfectly safe (except for the broken buckle!) which was so close to being missed.  My rider was scheduled to go cross-country at 8am the next morning, and my diligence could have saved her life.  [Of course it is the rider's ultimate responsibility to check their tack...but often in the heat of the moment, rider trusts the grooms to have things in order, time is short you gotta get on and go.  So, grooms of the world: THEIR SAFETY RIDES ON YOU, don't forget that!!]  In short: details matter!

I apologize for this column's abrupt ending...I had spent the last hour writing an overview of how I clean tack daily and for the show ring, and the Blogging Editor just ate it.  Apparently the "auto-save" feature was not working properly.   So next week we will probably have more on tack cleaning and polishing methods. 

 

Do you ever stare in awe at the sleek shiny horses, the glistening brass, perfect braids, and dazzling white marks at a CCI trot up?  Do you ever wonder how they get that way?  (LOTS of hard work is the correct answer!)  Each Sunday morning we will bring you a little insider info on how the big-time grooms manage an upper level event horse.  Feel free to email or comment with specific grooming questions if you have a topic in mind!

Previous entries:
A Close Shave

Get those white legs white! 

Hoofcare

Shining, Shimmering, Splendid

An old hunter groom once told me in a Pony Club lesson, "The poorest kid can have the best-looking horse in the class."  We looked at her quizzically. She tossed aside the fancy goat-hair brushes, the European polishing cloths, bottles of Showsheen, and held up her empty palms.  "This is all you need," she said.  Elbow grease is the surest thing for a healthy shine on your horse's coat; even rubbing with your bare hands is an excellent way to distribute natural oils and stimulate the skin.  Nothing looks quite as glamorous as a glistening coat, that iridescent gleam (or "bloom") that is the result of hours of daily effort.  No amount of Showsheen or shampoo can replicate it!

I'm sure you all know how to brush a horse-- curry first, dandy brush, etc.  I won't waste your time reciting the words in the Pony Club D Manual.  But I will stress that putting in the daily time makes the best shine.  Don't skimp on your currying, even if the horse isn't that dirty-- it's the heat and friction that does the work, not simply removing mud.  Sensitive horse?  Use a soft jelly-scrubber or nubby mitt, whatever the horse will tolerate.  Concentrate on muscled areas of the neck, shoulder, back, and rump-- avoid tender flanks and belly if it excessively irritates the animal.  Use massage-like motions, moving in small movements with the skin and not just roughly against the hair. 

When you're done currying and brushing the dust off, follow up with hot-toweling.  This is the old-fashioned secret employed by most top barns in both the show world, and for the Thoroughbred sales ring.  Get a small bucket (about 8qt size) of very hot water-- it shouldn't be scalding, but it should be more than simply "very warm."  Add a small squeeze of dish soap (or baby oil, if dry-skinned).  Dunk a small hand-towel in the hot water, and wring it out very thoroughly.  Start at the horse's face.  Using curry-like motions, scrub the horse from head to toe with your (slightly) damp rag, getting down to the skin.  The idea is to steam-clean the horse, not get him soaking wet.  (Don't worry if he ends up a little too wet the first few times-- it happens to all of us as we're learning!  Wring out that rag really well!!)  Dunk the rag back in the water whenever it gets cold or dirty-- usually after one horse quarter.  If your horse is very dirty, change out the hot water between sides.  Scrub at any stains, especially on white areas--daily attention makes for an overall cleaner horse for special occasions.

The horse should be dry by the time you finish the other side.  Go over the horse with a short-bristled body brush to lay the hair properly, using brisk, firm strokes to stimulate the warm skin.  Hang on to your damp rag, and use it to whisk across your body brush (instead of a curry) to clean it every few strokes.  A horse who is hot-toweled every day rarely needs a bath except for shows (grays may be excluded!).  Keeping the skin clean helps avoid fungal infections, as well as creating that beautiful shine.  Hot-toweling is especially important for clipped horses whose coats may be a little rough or harsh.

Despite all the benefits of hot-toweling, I do tend to skip the procedure in the winter on horses with very shaggy, woolly coats.  It is almost impossible to get to the skin without getting the hair too wet; and in 20-degrees, wet hair is the last thing I want to create!  For the long-haired horse, I spend plenty of time currying (usually with force, to get through the fluff), and occasionally vacuum if the mud is really caked on. 

Another cheap trick is to thoroughly rub your horse after you ride.  It sounds incredibly simple, but just take an extra 5 minutes after you untack, and use a rag (or bare hands!) over the neck, shoulders, chest, back, and haunches.  Horses learn to love the massage, and rubbing the warm muscles really brings out the oils of the coat.  Keep at it for a few weeks, and the coat will be noticeably softer.  If your horse is only slightly sweaty, don't be lazy and head to the wash stall-- get that rag and go to work!  Even when you DO have to hose off, take a little extra time to dry the body (not just legs) with a towel.  The horse doesn't have to be DRY...but just a little rubbing makes a difference.  I know our lives are busy and time is short, but I promise if you put in the daily effort you will see the reward!

NOTE: Of course, a quality coat starts on the inside.  Proper nutrition and good feed is important.  Adding oil, flax, or rice bran, or specific vitamin supplements, are some ways to help "feed" for a shiny coat.  However, good grass (and/or hay) supplies most of the horse's vitamin requirements-- most commercial grains are also loaded with extra goodies, too, so supplementation is often unnecessary.  Consult an equine nutritionist if you believe your horse needs any feed additives.  

 

Do you ever stare in awe at the sleek shiny horses, the glistening brass, perfect braids, and dazzling white marks at a CCI trot up?  Do you ever wonder how they get that way?  (LOTS of hard work is the correct answer!)  Each Sunday morning we will bring you a little insider info on how the big-time grooms manage an upper level event horse.  Feel free to email or comment with specific grooming questions if you have a topic in mind!

Previous entries: Get those white legs white! and  Hoofcare

 

 

Today's Topic:  A Close Shave

 

 

While the hairy-whiskers look is all the rage in Europe, I still prefer my horses' muzzles neatly clipped.  There is a valid argument about removing an integral part of the horse's sensory apparatus...but honestly, I've never known a negative instance caused by lack of equine nose hair; they know where their nose is without feelers.  It adds to the "finished" appearance, so I trim muzzles, ears, bridlepath, and fetlocks prior to competitions.

For clipping muzzles, take your time to view the nose from all angles.  Nothing worse than a stray 3" whisker!  For horses with white/pink noses, those white whiskers can be difficult to see, so look closely and use your free hand to feel for them.  For a hairy chin and jaw, turn the clippers upside-down and gently shave in the direction of the hair growth.  I don't keep muzzles shaved as a regular part of grooming-- I let them get long and hairy until it's time to go to a show.  Life is too short to waste time unnecessarily clipping nose hairs.  During the busy show season, whiskers grow pretty fast, so you'll probably have to re-clip before every event (enough growth accumulates in about 10 days). 

I do not shave the guard hairs around the eyes-- I do think they can help a horse avoid bumping his eyes in a crowded space, stall or trailer.  Also, clipping that area can be a little tricky-- working that close to the eye leaves little room for error should the horse move its head abruptly.  Eye hairs aren't that noticeable, anyway.

 

Similarly, I only clip the outside of the ears.  Four inches of hair protruding the ear canal is unsightly, and needs to go.  But leave the inner fuzz for necessary protection from insects (summer) or cold (winter).  Cup the ear at the base, close the edges together, and clip anything exposed.  Neaten up the outer edges, and leave the inner hair alone.  Ear hair grows a little slower, so you can probably get by shaving them once a month or so.  As with muzzles, I generally only trim the ears before a show, and leave them natural at home-- though if greasy-gunk starts accumulating on the hairy lower tufts, I'll snip them with scissors.

 

(Yellow line shows where to start, just behind ears.)

I am a little particular about clipping the bridlepath.  I HATE long, over-clipped bridlepaths, a la show arabs or saddlebreds (nothing against these breeds, but my horse is an eventer!).  I like mine the width of the bridle, two-fingers width only.  It's a personal choice, but just a pet-peeve of mine (the list is long...you will be informed of others later).  Begin just behind the ears, where the halter naturally sits; I like to leave as much forelock as possible.  I know it is common to shave whatever was once-clipped before, no matter if it was 5" long, because people hate the little "mohawk" while the extra hair grows out.  Yes, that little piece is hard to braid and it looks unsightly.  However, in two months it will be normal mane length and you're left with a neater appearance.  I've developed a few braiding tricks to disguise the mohawk, so the horse at least looks pretty for dressage/jogs. (These will be discussed in a braiding feature sometime in the future.)  Since bridlepaths actually have a day-to-day function, I keep the area clipped about once a month year-round, or as needed.

 

 

www.ehow.com

Clipping the fetlocks is pretty self-explanatory.  Be careful not to shave too close, I generally don't use anything shorter than a #10 blade.  Clip the pastern hair laterally (middle to outside, middle to inside), as well as longitudinally (heel to fetlock) to shave all the long hairs.  Use caution around the ergot (the horny growth at the point of fetlock), sometimes leaving a touch of longer hair there is better than a large unsightly scaly lump-- it depends on the horse.  Most of the time, I do not trim up corornary bands (life is too short)...the only exception is if I'm doing a full body clip and clipping the legs entirely.  I suppose if I had a feathered draft cross, I might neaten up the coronets...but for most sporthorses it's unnecessary.

 

Another area I Do Not Clip is the top of the tail.  Call me old-fashioned--I prefer "traditional"-- but I am really not into the shaved-tail, toilet-brush bushy look. (Remember I told you I had some pet peeves?  This is another one)  I was taught to always pull the tail, or leave it natural, braiding optional.  I will grudgingly admit that there are a few clipped tails that look okay... but a well-done pulled tail always looks better.  This will be further detailed in a future "Proudly Pulled Tails" edition of Jog-Up. 

Straighten ("bang") the bottom of the tail with sharp scissors, at whatever length looks best.  If the tail is thick enough, I cut mine just level with the fetlocks; but don't save a few extra inches if the bottom ends are thin and scraggly--it's far better to be short and thick!  Be sure the tail is tangle-free from dock to ends before you cut; hold the tail out slightly (place a comb or sweatscraper under it) to see how the tail hangs at working position. 

 

 

These little clipping details really add a nice touch to your horse's overall show appearance.  It won't make up for a dull coat or ugly braids, but tidying up the unnecessary stray hair is an important step in show grooming and makes the horse "look the part." 

* * * * 

I will also mention that you should properly accustom your horse to clippers well in advance of an event.  Don't wait till the last minute to find out that Buster can't tolerate vibration on his nostrils, or is convinced the buzz-saw of death is trying to remove his ears. 

 Acclimate the horse to the clippers with them unplugged and turned off; rub them on his nose, face, working slowly towards the ears.  If the horse is at all ear shy, work on handling that area as part of your daily grooming routine.  Eventually, turn the clippers on and allow the horse to feel the vibration of the clipper casing.  Use treats and ample praise to reward the horse for standing relaxed. Have a helper hold the horse, to prevent flip-out episodes when tied or cross-tied.  It's never ideal to force the issue, building on the horse's fear (and ending up with a hatch-job in the process, with hunks of hair missing or glaringly left behind).

While I MUCH prefer the calm, quiet, treat-giving approach, some horses simply have too much resistance.  A twitch is usually my first option; a fist-sized loop of baling twine and a double-end snap does the trick.  Some horses respond better to a lip-chain; this should ONLY be used by those with skill and experience.  Other horses are so bad that only drugs (tranq) permits them to stand quietly to have the ears done.  I really hate resorting to these methods, but sometimes you must *get it done* and the horse can learn from surviving the experience.  Generally, the less fighting and fussing you can incur, the better the experience is for the horse. 

My horse was awful about her ears when I got her; if I had any kind of object in my hand, she would not let me touch them or her bridlepath.  Even with a twitch on, she would slam me against the wall with her head and shoulder, eyes rolling in distress.  I persisted, using treats and twitch when necessary over the next year.  She improved greatly, and now I clip her head while she stands halter-less.  She just needed to learn that I wasn't hacking her ears off, and then she accepted it peacefully.  Many horses are the same way.  As with ALL things with horses, patience and consistency are key!

 

 

Do you ever stare in awe at the sleek shiny horses, the glistening brass, perfect braids, and dazzling white marks at a CCI trot up?  Do you ever wonder how they get that way?  (LOTS of hard work is the correct answer!)  Each Sunday morning we will bring you a little insider info on how the big-time grooms manage an upper level event horse.  Feel free to email or comment with specific grooming questions if you have a topic in mind!

 

 

Today's Topic:  Get those white legs white!

 

 

Some riders are fortunate enough to have horses with solid black or chestnut legs, reducing grooming time and allowing for an extra minute of sleep on show mornings.  The rest of us must avoid the snooze button and get to the barn early, to combat the green spots and yellow stains that inevitably occur the day of a special occasion.

So how can you make those white legs sparkle?

It starts with regular attention.  Wash legs weekly to remove everyday dirt and stains.  You may use your favorite whitening shampoo, but I find that regular dish soap works just as well.  Save your Quic Silver for show baths!  Pink skin beneath the white hair is often sensitive, so take care to rinse thoroughly and avoid rough scrubbing if irritation occurs. 

For your pre-show bath, slather on the Quic Silver (or purple-product of your choice) and let it sit while you wash the rest of the body, or about ten minutes.  Rinse well.  Apply Showsheen to the leg markings to resist any overnight discoloring.  For one-day events, or when cross-country is imminent, I avoid the Showsheen step-- it could cause boots to slip down.

The morning of the event, give those whites another quick scrub with Quic Silver.  Use full-strength on dry hair for soiled spots.  Rinse and rub the legs dry with a towel.  For a final whitening effect, puff and pat on a little cornstarch on the socks.  This works especially well to camouflage any "hind leg gunk" on the cannons.  **Be sure to use cornSTARCH, not cornMEAL, as one friend of mine tried to do...but it was pretty funny!  Baby powder, talc, and GoldBond also work too.

In some disciplines (hunter/jumper, breed shows) it is very common to shave white legs with clippers.  This makes them very easy to keep clean, but can turn them pink and irritate skin (clip at least 7 days before competing).  I generally avoid clipping legs altogether-- event horses need hair for protection from bangs and nicks on xc.  It also greatly increases the risk of boot rubs...a bright white sock doesn't look good anymore when the leg is painful and swollen!  If you *do* choose to clip lower legs, use polos or fleece-lined boots during exercise for 7-10 days to be sure enough hair grows back, before you use standard Woof or Nunn Finer boots.

 

 

Nothing looks quite as sharp as a glistening white sock contrasted with dark hoof oil.  Anyone who's had a white-legged horse knows how hard it is to achieve that sparkle, and your effort will surely be noticed!

 

 

 Last week's tip:  Hoofcare

 

 

 

 

Do you ever stare in awe at the sleek shiny horses, the glistening brass, perfect braids, and dazzling white marks at a CCI trot up?  Do you ever wonder how they get that way?  (LOTS of hard work is the correct answer!)  Each Sunday morning we will bring you a little insider info on how the big-time grooms manage an upper level event horse.  Feel free to email or comment with specific grooming questions if you have a topic in mind!

 

 

 

 

 

Today's tip:  Hoofcare

Photo ©Kit Houghton/Mitsubishi Motors via hoofcare.blogspot.com.

 

Of course it goes without saying, your horse should be properly trimmed/shod on a suitable schedule leading up to competition.  Plan your farrier schedule well in advance, according to your competition plans, so that your horse won't risk running with loose nails and long toes (a recipe for ripping a shoe off!). 

This is especially important for three-days!  Try to have your final shoeing 5-10 days before the Wednesday jog, that way the clinches are tight and strong.  Any less than 5 days and you run into a possible hot nail appearing too late to fix before trot-up (it happens!!).

Now, to make those feet pretty.  Use SOS pads to scrub any manure stains for a nice, clean foot; best if used wet and sudsy, but also work dry in a pinch.  Applying hoof oil is my final step before the horse leaves the barn; I usually stand him in the barn aisle, or outside, to prevent shavings/dirt from icking it up.  Use whatever particular oil product you prefer.  I like the dark glossiness of Hooflex Liquid or Fiebings, but baby oil works just fine too.  A small piece of sponge soaked in baby oil makes a great applicator.  The darker oils make a nice contrast with white markings, without looking unnatural.  Clear sealant polishes are also ok, but not my favorite (they are also very sticky, and make a huge mess when spilled in the tack box!).  STAY AWAY from "black" polishes, especially on white feet.  It just screams "I'm A Halter Horse!" and will have the fashion police snickering at you.

For a CCI jog, take your hoof product with you to the warmup area.  Wipe the feet clean and apply a final coat of oil before the horse presents to the judges.  Glistening feet clip-clopping soundly down the runway strip always make a good impression!

 

For interesting hoof-related information, see Fran Jurga's hoof blog, including 2009 Badminton's Best Shod Horse Award.