Back in June, I wrote an article about cross-country schooling a green horse, and how we all seek some special feeling this sport gives to us.  This past weekend, the ex-broodmare officially became an Event Horse (for real).  

Tuesday of last week, I made the (right) decision to scratch my preliminary level entry; the ground was hard, and that horse really didn’t need to go.  On a whim, I asked the event secretary if I could substitute a lower level entry.  She agreed (bless her!) and I had to choose a horse to enter.  My preferred (somewhat experienced) novice candidate was suffering from lost-shoe-itis, making him more or less unrideable for the past two weeks.  I was left with Rocket, the ex-broodmare, and the possibility of going beginner novice.  Keep in mind, she has only been in riding work since February.  She learned to jump at the end of March.  And her first attempt at cross-country was six weeks ago.

What the heck, I figured she could probably do it.  It wouldn’t be pretty, we wouldn’t be competitive, but I believed she could handle it.  I made the necessary arrangements (things like a last-minute Coggins!) and crammed as much preparation into her as I could in four days.  A quick jump, a brief xc school, and two days of “intense” beginner novice flatwork.  I had mostly worked on her relaxation and rhythm…not doing precise transitions at particular points around the arena (this proved most difficult).  But c’mon, any horse can walk, trot, canter a few big circles, right?  

Saturday morning we were off to the show.  I worried how she would act once we got there– would she settle in her stall?  Would she be a “screamer,” stall walking and whinnying her head off?  She’s used to living outside 24/7 in a herd situation.  Would she eat and drink normally?  How would she handle being in a tent?  What about a crowded (and often CRAZY) warmup?  She’d hardly worked around other horses before.  There were lots of questions to answer, outside of the “can she finish three phases of a horse trial.”

I needn’t have worried.  She settled in like an old pro, munched her hay and enjoyed the activity around her.  She made friends with her neighbors, but did not become attached to them.  She was polite, respectful of her stall guard, and just extremely pleasant in general.  I was encouraged, though I knew the riding part would still be a challenge.

I’d already accepted that dressage was going to be ugly.  She’d never been in a dressage arena; I knew there would be gawking at letters, and possibly deer-in-headlights looks at the judge’s booth.  I figured transitions would happen “in the general vicinity” of a letter, most likely inverted.  I just wanted to keep all four feet inside the arena, and not run over anything.  In that respect, it was a success.  She actually had two or three rideable moments, and her transitions were relatively prompt.  Yes, she was tense; yes, she was above the bit a lot; but she did her best, didn’t dodge sideways at the letters, or prop and duck at the judge.  It was an ugly test to be sure, but considering her inexperience I was very proud.  We barely managed to break 50 (you know it’s bad when your best comment is “Nice Turnout!”), putting us solidly in last place out of 16, but I was happy.

The show jumping course seemed fair enough for the level; I still saw lots of potential challenges for such a green horse, but I didn’t think it would overface her.  She warmed up quite well, after nearly stopping cold at the first crossrail.  The chaos of BN warmup (kids on ponies flying around, others in minor panic) didn’t seem to bother her at all.  We went straight into the show ring (surrounded by the flapping temporary tents) and she focused completely on me and the jumps in front of her.  Yes, I took the “scenic route” making big loopy turns…she still lacks a bit of balance, to be sure.  But Rocket approached the jumps with enthusiasm, and felt great.  Her only green moment came at the very end of the course– the two-stride combination.  She came boldly through the turn, but did a typical green-horse prop-and-wiggle when she realized there were TWO jumps right there!  I gave her a kick and she jumped in anyway, knocking the rail (deservedly so), but straightening herself to jump out nicely.  A rail and three time penalties…I was pleased with her performance, and moreso with the confidence she displayed.  We moved up from 16th to 14th place; I told you I didn’t expect to be competitive! (LINK to photo)

Cross-country seemed well within her capabilities.  Granted, that’s the first BN course I’ve walked (with the intent to ride) in about eleven years…but given how well she has schooled (um, twice in her life) I thought she could do it.  I expected her to be green starting out, but I knew her confidence would build as we went.  As it turned out, she blasted out of the startbox (so much for trotting!) and attacked the course from the first fence.  Rocket settled into a great rhythm, and I hardly had to kick at anything.  The water had caused several issues for my division– it was a narrow entrance, and too many riders were walking their horses to the beach and then letting them stop.  I cantered up to it, she broke a trot, but I kicked her on positively and she went right in. 

We finished the course with hardly a hesitation.  Just as that first xc school, her ears were up and her eyes were beaming, looking for more.  I had the same big grin on my face… now I *knew* I had myself a new event horse.  Yes, it was only beginner novice.  I have no idea how far she will want to go.  But overcoming her inexperience to perform as well as she did, with her confidence growing all weekend– that’s the best you can hope for from any horse. 

To top it all off, she moved up from 14th to 7th after cross-country.  A pretty purple ribbon…well-earned, and well-appreciated. 

more event photos

Polo wraps are your favorite fleecy friends used for leg protection during exercise when you forget your half chaps.  Also great for your horse, too!  Seriously though, polos are a suitable alternative to galloping boots when the need arises.  Generally I MUCH prefer a good set of Woof (or other brand, such as Nunn Finer) boots instead of wraps: faster to apply/remove, easier to clean– just hose off–, and safe in most weather conditions.  As we all should know, polos are completely unacceptable for cross-country…they slip horribly when wet, causing disastrous results as they come unwound on a galloping horse.  Why, then, would you waste your time rolling all those polos, and spending hours untangling them from the dryer?

Polo wraps are perfect for sensitive-skinned animals.  They rarely rub, and are perfect to use after your horse has had its legs shaved (either body clipping white socks, or shaving for a tendon ultrasound).  I’ve learned the hard way…do NOT use a boot on a shaved leg, the friction will irritate the skin into blowing up huge!  Polos only, please.

I also have an “off-label” use for polos: instead of standing wraps for turnout.  Horses who live outside 24/7 occasionally have need for a standing bandage (a cut that needs sweating, for example) yet full-on standing wraps would be unsuitable.  Thick and bulky, standing wraps tend to soak up dew from the grass, and shift too easily on an outdoor horse, so I do NOT use them in turnout!   If I must wrap a leg, I’ll use a polo wrap instead.  In such case, I’m careful to end the wrap higher on the ankle, to stay up out of the mud and wet grass, less likely to slip.  The wrap should be changed twice daily, and if there is much risk of it coming undone (rain! or anything but a quiet horse) do not use this method on unsupervised animals.

Because of the possibility of slipping down, use polos with caution: preferably for flatwork only.  If you do use them for jumping or fast work, be extra sure they are wrapped securely and keep an eye out for any loosening or displacement.  Don’t use them in muddy or wet environments– that’s just asking for trouble!

How to Apply Polo Wraps:

Some methods (including the Pony Club Way…even though PC believes polos are the devil) call for unraveling the first 6″ of material to use as a “protective strip” placed vertically down the tendons.  I generally don’t see the need for this…it takes a little extra time, and honestly a thin extra layer of fleece isn’t likely to provide much extra protection to the tendons anyway.

I start my polos just like any other wrap: place the edge of the tail-end along the inside of the leg, about 2/3 up the cannon.  Wrap from front to back, inside to outside, maintaining consistent tension.  Since there is no extra padding to disperse pressure, use extreme care not to wrap too tightly!  Wrap down the leg, overlapping with even spacing.  Go under the fetlock to “cup” it, making a nice V at the front to allow for flexion.  Continue back up the leg, even spacing, until you end just below the knee or hock.  Ideally, the velcro will fasten on the outside of the limb, to reduce the risk of the horse brushing it and loosening. 

The finished wrap should be neat and trim, following the contours of the leg nicely.  The polo should not be “tight,” as it does not provide support.  The wrap should just be snug enough to maintain its position.

A “protective strip” down the back of the tendons.

Continuing the wrap down the “strip.”

Starting the wrap normally, from the inside of the cannon bone. 

Continuing down the leg, making even overlaps with consistent tension.

The finished product.  Velcro ending on the outside of the leg.

Beginning the wrap on a hind leg: starting lower, about halfway down the cannon.

A finished hind wrap.  Note the centered “V” at the fetlock.

Hints for pretty polos:

-As with stable bandages, roll your polo wraps tightly!  I prefer to roll them on my knee, pulling some of the stretch to make it very snug as I wind up the bandage.  Your rolled polos should be very firm– not loose– when you’re finished.  Tuck the corners under, throw the polo at a barnmate and she should respond with “Ow!!”  Otherwise, it isn’t rolled tight enough (or you need to work on your aim.  Yes, long hours in the barn will make you seek strange entertainment at times, like pelting people with polos.  It is fun though.)

–New polo bandages are always awkward to use.  Thick and fluffy, they often look very bulky on the leg.  The new fleece is also “slick,” and tends to slip.  Wash your polos as often as you can to “break them in.”

–Older polos are the bomb.  A bit nappy, with some “pilling” on the fabric makes them grip better, becoming less likely to slip or shift.  Take care of the velcro, and your polos will easily last for years. 

-Speaking of velcro: it accumulates lint when you wash them.  Pick out as much as you can from the “hook” side, or else you run the risk of un-sticky velcro coming undone while you ride.  If the velcro loses its adhesion, don’t use the wrap anymore!

-Select one or two colors and stick with it.  I know it’s fun to “accessorize,” but there is really no need to have a set of polos in fifty different colors.  They only get lost (one at a time), and you’ll end up with mis-matched legwear.  Stick with white, black, navy (etc) so that as singles disappear over time, you can still have plenty that match.  Conservative colors also look good on a variety of horses.

–Nothing dresses up a horse better than a set of white polos for flatwork.  Something about the flashing optical illusion always makes a “decent” mover appear amazing.  Unless you have an endless supply of white polos, save a set of four for special occasions when you want that little bit of “pop.”  White polos tend to stain, and the dingy-ness is not appealing.  Retire your old white polos to schooling use, and keep your others bright.  White polos look a little silly on light gray horses– go for the contrast and use a dark color instead.

FEATURED RIDER:

Name: Susan a/k/a “SueCoo2” 

Age: 51 

Location: Houston, Texas 

Primary horse’s name: Cross Fox Kelenna a/k/a “Kikki” 

Age, breed, pertinent info: 

Kikki is a five (5) year old 15.2 Connemara Thoroughbred cross I bought three years ago as an un-started two year old from breeder Beth Blankenship @ Cross Fox Farm in Versailles, Kentucky. She is extremely well bred with Grange Finn Sparrow and Leam Bobby Finn (Carna Bobby) and Ashfield Jovial in her Connemara lines. Ashfield Jovial Joker is one of the top sires of jumping ponies in Ireland. 

On her TB side her dam (Mistflower) is by With Approval who is a very good sire and his sire in particular Caro has an extremely good sport horse reputation. Denny Emerson’s stallion Loyal Pal was by Caro. The Caro sire line horses are super athletic, correctly built and they love to jump. Mistflower traces to Boudoir, a VERY high class mare. Her daughter Lady Ambassador produced Coraggioso who was a top ‘chaser. My thanks to both “Linny” and “Sassenach” from the COTH BB for assisting me in researching her lineage. 

Kikki and I had a rough start. I had some health issues (I’m a recovering alcoholic/addict) which needed addressing and it prevented me from really working and riding her in a consistent manner. She excels when in a consistent program and has an excellent work ethic. Kikki , though backed and started when she turned three, could be a little difficult. Though she is a “HOT” mare, she is the type of horse I have always been drawn to, as she is super smart and extremely brave. 

With my health issue addressed, a new set of goals, and a plan (see short term goals), we are forming a wonderful partnership and I am very much looking forward to our journey together. She has taught me patience, perseverance, trust, and humility. She’s learning that our journey will be fun. 

Level currently competing: GAG / Beginner Novice 

Short term goals this spring/summer: 

To attend the Lucinda Green clinic in June at Greenwood Farm and to successfully compete at her first show. We’d like to end the summer with a trip to the beach for a good gallop, and a Jim Graham clinic in September. Year-end goals: To have a happy, healthy, and well educated horse who enjoys her work and our time together. For myself, to remain sober, develop my skill set and apply for the 2011 USEA Worth the Trust Scholarship. 

Overall goals? 

To one day do a Training 3Day. I also want to clinic with Jim Wofford (I loved his book “Take a Good Look Around”) and attend a Denny Emerson Adult Eventing camp. Ultimately, I’d love to take Kikki to the AEC at Carl Bouckaert’s farm Chattahoochee Hills one day. 

What’s the best thing you’ve learned recently? 

That a horse can be the best medicine no matter what ails you. 

Favorite eventing moment/story? 

In 1998 I attended the first CCI **** event ever to be held in North America. The Rolex 3Day in Lexington, Kentucky. I was a “Hunter Princess” at the time and didn’t really know a lot about the “crazy” sport of Eventing. All I knew was that they did three phases and jumped BIG solid obstacles. I met fox hunter extraordinaire Mat Simpson and a slew of other people I’d been communicating with on the COTH bulletin board. Here is a picture from the “The Officially Scheduled Internet Equestrians Rolex Bank Photo”. That’s me in the center knelling. As long as I live I will never forget what it was like to walk out there on that first **** course! It literally took my breath away. It was like the Wizard of Oz and I was Dorothy dropped into some amazing wonderland!! But unlike Dorothy, I NEVER wanted to go home! The horses were spectacular, the riding simply amazing and the camaraderie I witnessed and felt between the spectators and competitors was truly heartwarming. I fell in love the Spring of ’98 with this amazing sport. 

 All Wrapped Up:  Stable Bandages

Wrapping legs is a skill that every horse owner should have, and preferably before they actually need to do it. There’s no need to routinely wrap a horse’s legs, but it can be helpful in some situations:

Improperly-applied wraps can do a lot of damage. The blood supply to the tendons in the back of the horse’s leg is easily compromised if the wrap is too tight, if it is applied with uneven pressure, or if it slips down and bunches up as a result.

How much tension to use when applying a wrap depends on the materials and is something you just have to learn by experience. A properly applied bandage will stay in place without slipping and will lie snug against the skin, but not snug enough to indent it. You should be able to slide a fingertip between the bandage and the leg.  Gentle twisting of the wrap should not allow it to slide around the leg.

Materials:

A stable bandage consists of a leg pad (“quilt”) and an outer bandage.  The leg pad comes in several different styles: foam-filled, cotton batting, sheet cotton, “no-bows,” etc.  Make sure the padding is adequate and even, without any lumps which could cause pressure points.  Most prefer Wilkers brand wraps (cotton outer, quilted flannel lining, foam padding between), or plain cotton-batting filled wraps.  An average horse will wear 14″ quilts in front, 16″ behind (18″ for taller horses).  A very large horse will go up 2″, smaller horses/ponies down 2″. 

The outer bandage may be flannel, or the popular, colored polyester wraps. The polyester wraps stretch just a little, so be aware of this and don’t pull them too tight!  Flannels are the traditional wrap of choice, but their lack of stretch means you have to work a bit to keep them wrinkle-free.  Whatever you choose, the wrap should be at least 10 feet long, preferably 12 feet so you don’t feel “rushed” to finish a hind leg wrap. 

First, make sure the leg area that the bandage will cover is clean. Brush the hair so that it is lying smoothly.  Apply any topical medications that you wish to use (we will discuss poultice, liniments, sweats, etc in a future topic).

You can find several different sets of instructions on how to wrap legs properly. One frequently quoted says to always wrap from outside to inside, front to back, going clockwise on the right leg and counterclockwise on the left. However, if you’re right-handed, the counterclockwise wrapping is awkward, making it difficult to apply smoothly, and vice versa if you’re left-handed.

The important things to remember when bandaging are:

• Always start the wrap over bone, not the tendons.
• Bring the wrap around the front of the cannon bone first.
• End the wrap along the cannon bone as well.

Apply the leg pad so that it lies smoothly along the leg, with no wrinkles. While holding the padding in place lightly with one hand, begin the outer bandage by tucking it under the end of the cotton for a short distance, then wrapping in the same direction, first down to cover the fetlock joint, then back up again to end at the top of the leg. Each layer should overlap the one before by about half the width of the bandage.

One of the trickiest things to learn is where to start the outer bandage so that you finish wrapping at the top of the leg without too much bandage left over, or not enough left. This is going to depend on the length of your bandage (9 or 12 feet), the width (between 4 and 6 inches) and how much stretch it has, as well as how long the horse’s cannon bone is. In most cases, you’re just going to have to experiment with your bandaging materials to find out what works best, but in general the outer bandage is started anywhere from halfway up the cannon bone to just above the fetlock joint, worked down to take in the fetlock, then brought back up again.

When you first start learning to wrap legs, you’ll feel like you could use at least one other hand and will likely botch your first attempts. Be patient. Like any skill, it just takes practice.  The more you wrap, the better you will be at maintaining even tension throughout, and knowing your materials.  Having someone experienced give you a few hands-on lessons is very important! 

What makes a good wrap?

Even tension!  Consistent pressure from inside to outside, top to bottom.  You can use FIRM pressure, so long as it is the same throughout the leg.  Use the “thump test” (flick the finished wrap with your finger) to listen for tight or loose spots. 

Practice!  The more you use your wraps, the more comfortable you will be knowing where to start/end for the best finished product.  For instance, I know with my 9′ wraps, I will have ten revolutions around the leg until I reach the velcro.  I like to have four circuits down to the ankle, then six remaining circuits to finish it off below the knee.

Patience!  Don’t be in a hurry.  Take as long as you need to ensure the wrap is the best you can do.  If you feel it may slip down, wrinkle, or be too tight, take it off and start over. 

Good materials.  Use good-quality leg padding, and flannels/wraps of good length with strong velcro.  I prefer velcro at least an inch wide, instead of the thin half-inch strips that never seem to hold well (and create excess pressure).  Roll your wraps tightly!!  This makes it MUCH easier to maintain a snug wrap with even tension, when the wrap practically unrolls itself around the leg.

And now, the Goddess of Grooms will demonstrate everything you need to know about a proper stable bandage:

Breastplates & Breastcollars & Breastgirths

A breastplate, breastcollar, or breastgirth (pick a name, any name) is used to prevent your saddle from sliding back.  In an ideal, flat world, perfect-fitting saddles would never shift from proper position on a horse’s back.  But, add in galloping over varied terrain and monster jumps…well even the best saddle might slide a bit.  So, let’s find something to strap it down!

Hunting Breastplate

One of the most common, popular styles of saddle-strap-down items is the “hunting breastplate.”  This breastplate attaches to the saddle d-rings (or d-savers) and between the front legs at the girth.  It is reasonably effective, but some believe it can restrict the horse’s shoulders.  Some models are available with elastic inserts for more shoulder freedom; just beware that the elastic will weaken and stretch over time.  The center ring should rest on the horse’s chest muscles, not at the base of the neck (windpipe).  Adjust the side straps accordingly. When properly fitted, you should be able to fit a fist between the horse’s chest and the center strap ring; this allows for full extension of the shoulder while galloping.  While standing at rest, you may pull a foreleg forward and notice how it takes the slack in the breastplate.  The center ring allows the use of a martingale attachment– just be sure the attachment fits properly…many running forks are too short.  When using a martingale and a breastplate, the martingale should go OVER the breastplate– that is, put the breastplate on the neck first, then the martingale; this way the martingale is unrestricted.  Remember it alphabetically: “B before M!”

Polo Breastcollar

The red breastcollar known everywhere, Bruce Davidson

The polo breastcollar (why it’s a “collar” and not a “plate” I’m not sure; I don’t make the rules, I just follow them) functions a bit differently than the hunting breastplate.  Its points of attachment lie at the girth, so it cannot pull the points of the saddle tree into the horse’s withers.  A neck strap crossing the crest keeps it from slipping down; it should hang horizontally just above the point of shoulder, yet below the base of the windpipe.  The webbing may be made of worsted wool (colors!), leather, or heavy elastic.  Elastic allows a bit of “give,” yet may not be 100% reliable to hold your saddle in proper place.  As with the hunting breastplate, the polo breastcollar should allow about a fist to fit inbetween the web and chest while the horse stands at rest.  Elastic versions may be fitted slightly more snugly, but not tight.

5-Point Breastplate

The latest invention in the breastplate market is the “5-point” breastplate which took the event world by storm a few seasons ago.  A hybrid of the hunting style and polo breastcollar, it attaches to your saddle via 5-points (hence the name): each side of the girth, the d-rings, and the girth between the legs.  This distributes pressure nicely, and lifting the attachment point (the fleecy side ring) allows maximum shoulder freedom.  The elastic insert can’t hurt, either!  As with the hunting breastplate, however, there is still risk of digging the saddle down into the horse’s shoulder blades.  It can make a poorly-fitting saddle even worse, by strapping it down so securely.  Also, cleaning the fleecy bits can be a pain in the butt!  Like hunting breastplates, the 5-point also allows for martingale attachments.  As with hunting styles, be sure the attachments are adjusted correctly.

Jumper Breastgirth

Wikipedia Commons">

Image via Wikipedia Commons

Why can’t these breast-plate/-collar/-girth people just pick a term and stick with it?  The jumper-style breastgirth is essentially the webbing of the polo breastcollar, but without the neck strap.  It attaches only at the saddle d-rings, resting at the base of the neck.  Often made of elastic, or with generous elastic inserts, they allow pretty good freedom of the shoulder. However, it is easy for the webbing to press on the base of the windpipe.  I’ve never encountered a problem in fitting a breastgirth, but I always worry about it.  This style is more limited in its effectiveness compared to the others– the horse’s neck is the primary object counter-balancing the saddle, as opposed to the horse’s chest used by the hunting, polo, and 5-point breastplates.  As with the others, allow 4-5 fingers, or a fist (less if elastic) between the horse and the collar.  The best thing about the jumper breastgirth?  It’s great for the lazy…no need to slip it over the horse’s head, just attach each side to the d-rings. 

Note: including the full list of Jog-Up topics is getting rather lengthy, so click on the “Sunday Jog-Up” category to see all entries, or use the search function on the upper toolbar.

WANTED:  Your Jog-Up tips and grooming stories!!  Please send me your ideas, failures, and successes so I can share them with the rest of EN!  I’d love to hear any feedback, or see before/after photos of your horse.  Email me at [email protected]. 

Girths

An oft-forgotten piece of equipment (both figuratively and literally…I can’t tell you how often I’ve left it at home) the girth is an extremely vital piece of equipment.  Think about it– you can live with a broken stirrup leather, even a broken bridle…but a broken girth is pretty much the worst thing that could happen while riding.  There are many styles of girths available, made of many different materials, but no matter what you choose, ALWAYS check the elastic and stitching at the buckles for safety. 

Long girths are the traditional saddle-attachment device.  They are most often seen in a shaped, chafeless style to avoid rubs at the elbows.  The “overlay” girth is of the same shape, but with an extra panel of leather across the width to prevent curling at the elbows.  Most of these girths have elastic at one end; it is customary to attach the girth with the elastic on the left side.  If a girth has double elastic, be careful to avoid overtightening which can lead to soreness or rubs.  “Anatomical” girths are also popular; they have a special carved pattern at the elbows, hopefully providing more comfort and preventing the saddle from slipping back.  In my experience, the girth’s effectiveness is greatly dependent on the individual horse.

Girths are available in many other materials.  String girths are helpful for some sensitive horses, and/or after body clipping.  The strings allow the skin to breathe, causing less irritation.  Other synthetic fabrics are available, from cloth to fleece to neoprene.  Be sure that cloth girths are washed frequently, as they can become stiff and crusty with dried sweat.  Neoprene girths are quite easy to care for, just hose them off after use and they will remain soft and flexible.  Synthetic fleece may not be as beneficial as real shearling, but it still avoids rubs, and is immensely easier to wash, not to mention cheaper! 

With the recent trend of monoflap saddles, short girths are increasingly prevalent.   Like their long counterparts, you will find them in leather, cloth, fleece, and neoprene.  I generally prefer synthetics over leather for a short girth– and double-end elastic as well.  It seems to create more even girthing. 

Short girths used to be plain, straight bands of leather– now they come in all sorts of shapes, contours, and styles.  I tend to like a shaped girth, just to avoid the elbows.  Other girths go to extremes with wide belly pads and fancy buckles to distribute pressure.  I’m sure those things work to some degree, but in most cases I doubt the added expense is really worth it.

The average-sized long girth is a 48″ for most normal horses; short girths vary a bit more, but 26″ fits a lot of them.  A long girth is “properly fitted” when you have at least two holes above and below the buckles when it is tightened.  A short girth should have the buckles lie about half-way between the horse’s elbow and the lower edge of the saddle.  As with the long girth, be sure you have extra holes to allow for last-minute adjustments. 

The girth is only half of what holds your saddle on the horse– the other half is the actual saddle billets!  Be sure the billets are in good, safe condition.  Do not use any billets that are cracked, dry-rotted, or overly stretched-out.  It is especially important to care for long billets– these resting right against the horse are exposed to a lot of dirt and sweat.  And long billets only have two– compared to the average three on short billets– so it is extremely important to take care of them.

Overgirths

With the disappearance of the long format, overgirths aren’t quite as popular as they used to be.  The risk of a billet breaking during a two-hour endurance phase, over steeplechase fences no less, was enough to see every rider using one.  Now, when you’re only on the horse for 30 minutes, you have enough faith in your tack that overgirths are a bit more rare.  Not to mention using them with a monoflap is a bit tricky.  If you do use an overgirth (never a bad idea, at prelim and above), be sure your girth has loops sewn on to thread it through.  Any saddler or bridle-repair shop can stitch them on for you.  Or, if you’re in a bind (such as if one loop breaks, or is sewn too high), you can create your own loops out of electrical tape.  Just wrap it three or for circuits around, doubled back on itself on the underside to prevent sticking to the overgirth.  I had electrical tape loops that lasted for three seasons or more!

A common overgirth length is 80″; some horses a bit more, others a bit less.  When putting the overgirth on, be sure it buckles under the horse’s belly, far away from the rider’s leg (it’s uncomfortable!).  Try to keep the billet and elastic low, as well, to avoid interference with the rider’s thigh or calf.  Some riders like to do up the overgirth while mounted: tighten normal girth, get on and walk around, tighten the regular girth again, then have the groom adjust the overgirth.  Others, like me, tighten the regular girth, and adjust the overgirth before we get on (because we have no groom to do it for us!).  An overgirth should never be tighter than your main girth– always pull it as tight as you can, and then loosen it one hole.

Other girthy notes:

When the girth is tightened, it’s a good idea to stretch the horse’s front legs forward to loosen any wrinkled skin that could become chafed. 

Anytime you tighten the girth from the saddle, be careful!  Put your leg forward over the flap, and try to adjust by feel, keeping your head up and alert to your surroundings.  It is generally a better idea to get off and tighten a short girth from the ground, but use extreme caution when you are too lazy and decide to bend over in the saddle.  For this reason, I prefer short girths with large single loops– easy to tuck in quickly– rather than individual billet keepers that you must fiddle with an instant too long when your young horse loses his patience and decides to trot off. 

Tighten the girth slowly!  Most horses are not “born girthy,” but rather are made that way.  Poor-fitting saddles are the main cause, but cinching up roughly doesn’t do you any favors.  Cold-backed horses often benefit from a short walk down the barn aisle before you tighten the girth one final time and mount .  

Pony Clubbers:  We’ve all heard the lecture about getting your elastic clean for formal inspections.  I’ve tried pretty much all the concoctions– toothpaste (PASTE, not gel!), oxyclean, dilute bleach, Whisk, Shout, QuicSilver– you name it I’ve used it.  And never been happy with the results.  So what do I recommend?  Go buy a girth with black or brown elastic.  Even if you ONLY use it at USPC events, you will thank yourself a hundred times over.  Trust me on this one!

Last week, I wrote a post titled “Why I do this sport.”  I wasn’t sure how it would be received; I liked it, but I have learned that sometimes you never can tell how your audience will react to what you write.  Some things you think are a huge hit turn out to be nothing, some things you think are silly filler turn out to be fan-favorites.  I was pleasantly suprised by the positive feedback…I hadn’t intended to move anyone to tears, but those words came from my heart and are how I honestly feel about this sport.  I must have hit the bullseye, because it seems like you all feel the same way.  That’s one of the things I love about this site, how it can bring all of us eventers together.

A reader emailed me in response to the article, and it was so good I just had to share it.  Many of us know the feelings contained in this email; we’ve been there, felt the heartbreak and the hope, and the determination to carry on and try again.

So, today I share with you that email.  Carrie’s story.

Hey Visionaire –
(I apologize in advance for the length of this email as I am sure you get a ba-zillion a day…)
 
Not sure you remember or not…a little while back, I sent you in my profile …well, a LOT has changed since then.  Pretty much the week before I sent you that email, Chester suffered what was (unbeknown to me at the time) a season ending (possibly worse) injury… Being as versed as you are, I am sure you know what UFP [Upper Fixated Patella] is…as a result of him being reared up onto out in the field, it caused his hips to be dis-placed, which needed adjusting, three times, which ended up with him not being ridden for 4 or 5 weeks, which caused the tendons over his patella to loosen…. sigh….it has been 9 weeks since it happened and it has been the longest 9 weeks of my life. 
 
We went from being on Top of the World (the weekend before we went to a schooling show where he proceeded to jump around several 2″6 to 3ft courses like it was NOTHING and didn’t touch/look at a THING…I could FEEL how proud he was of himself…I don’t think I had been more proud of anything in my life) to the absolute lowest you could ever feel…Poof…Just. Like. That.  You want disappointment…? Well, there you go. I was devastated.
 
For the past 4 weeks, I have been administering external blistering (which is a treat.. and I almost get my head taken off on a regular basis…ha) and mixing loooong trot sets up and down hills and easy ring work over pole and cavaletti grids (walk/trot only) in the hopes that the muscle builds up again in his flanks and butt which will help pull the tendon taught so we can move onwards and upwards. (The good good good news is, that there is absolutely ZERO lameness, he just catches every so often with that awful ‘clicking’ noise…makes me shudder.)  It hasn’t been easy…as any athlete going through rehab, he was ouchie, cranky and the complete opposite of his normal quirky, eccentric , loveable self.  But I have made him press on and much like your mare, he LOVES praise.  All he needs me to do is give him a pat and tell him: It’s okay. I know it feels weird, but trust me it will get better…’ and I can almost feel him sigh and say, ‘okay, I might not believe you, but I trust you so if you say so’. 
 
Over the past 4 weeks, we have covered miles and miles outside and it has been good bonding time.  He has gone from being a complete spookaholic space-cadet-tourist who is determined to see my a$s hit the dirt, (I think I told you before he is spooky and scared of everything) to a horse who understands why he is out there trotting miles upon miles upon miles and who is now confident that the rocks, trees, grass and sky etc are not going to eat him.  Now, rather then his trot being all over the place with his head up in the air like a giraffe paying attention to everything EXCEPT what he should be doing…he takes big bold trot steps, looks where he is going, holds his line, keeps his ears pricked and listens to me every step of the way. Confidence.
 
Not going to lie – there were a couple times when I burst into tears out there at the thought of Chester not ever being able to event (the chance is slim, but it is still there nonetheless) and kept asking myself ‘Why did this have to happen’ over and over again.  (I’m teetering on tearing up again now, it’s hard to write about.)
 
So – Why do I do this?  I do this because I believe in my horse.  I do this, because I know that my horse is special.  He deserves every single opportunity to show everyone who ever told him that he would ‘never be an event horse’ to shut it.  I do it for the moments when he finally gets it and understands just how special he really is and what a strong team we actually are.  I fall in love with him again for the first time every single day that goes by and I get more and more proud of him every single day that goes by…THAT is why I do this…
 
Thanks for writing that article…it was a doozie! 

Thank you for reading, Carrie.  And for sharing that with us.

Note: including the full list of Jog-Up topics is getting rather lengthy, so click on the “Sunday Jog-Up” category to see all entries, or use the search function on the upper toolbar.

WANTED:  Your Jog-Up tips and grooming stories!!  Please send me your ideas, failures, and successes so I can share them with the rest of EN!  I’d love to hear any feedback, or see before/after photos of your horse.  Email me at [email protected]. 

 Q & A with the Comment Section

The Jog-Up column generates a fair number of comments each week, and I do my best to read and reply to most of them.  However, I know I’ve missed a few.  And some of them are really great questions that deserve front-page answers.  So, since we missed the Sunday Jog-Up due to Bromont and the Luhmuhlen jog is today, here is your Wednesday Jog-Up.

February 2:  “Get Those White Legs White!”

Sarah:  Any tips for getting rid of that “hind leg gunk” that seems to thrive come spring time?

A:  Daily currying and hot-towelling (see Shining, Shimmering, Splendid) will help prevent the ickies from starting. It seems simple…but most of us (me included!) sometimes get in a hurry and forget to thoroughly curry those cannons. Sometimes just a little extra attention goes a long way.

If the cannon keratosis has already taken hold, wrapping with a sweat bandage can help clear it up. I use a furacin-based ointment, “faso” (furacin, dmso, scarlet oil, azium), that cleans it up in about 5-7 days. If you catch it early, sometimes a sweat with plain furacin can help.

Also in prevention, make sure your galloping boots are clean. Sweat and gunk can build-up between the boot and the leg, creating an environment prime for ickies. Clean your boots regularly, and dust them lightly with Gold Bond (or off-brand) body powder to absorb sweat and prevent rubbing on the legs.

Anonymous: can you offer tips on covering “white scars” on legs?

A: I usually don’t worry about scars on the legs. Most judges don’t notice or care. However, at the Thoroughbred sales, they like those legs looking as nice as possible. Grooms use colored chalk to hide any minor imperfections in hair color or small bald spots.

Kaitlyn: In one of your earlier topics you mentioned tail clipping/pulling (finally, someone with the same tail pet peeve!!) However, I would be interested in your thoughts on braiding and bagging or wrapping tails in addition to products such as MTG. Suggestions for washing/maintaining tails in general, keeping them up out of mud, etc, etc. Love the tips!!

 A:  I have had limited experience braiding and bagging tails…but when I did it, I was very happy with the results.  It is especially helpful with gray horses (MARES!) who pee on the tail and seem to stain it every way imaginable.  And if you stick with it, it does help increase length and thickness to some degree.  I used the three-tube braid-in tailbag, and I didn’t have any trouble keeping it on.  I know others use anything from tube socks to vetrap; I can’t help you there, but there are many methods that work.  I didn’t use any special products; just weekly washing with any handy soap (dish soap or shampoo), and then condition it well (whatever’s on sale, usually Suave).  I do use Showsheen, but not daily. 

The trick with the tail bag, especially a long tail, is to *knot it* somewhere just below the dock, once the bag is in place.  This knot will keep tension off the top of the bag, limiting the “drag” on the roots and preventing the bag from falling off. 

There are a few things you must accept when obsessing over a horse’s tail: 1) you cannot overcome his genetics.  A wispy tail can get a little better, but it’s never going to be like a draft horse’s.  2) Maximizing the horse’s genetic potential takes effort!  Throwing a tail bag on and ignoring it for a month or more is a bad idea.  Take it down weekly, or else the hair becomes too stressed and breaks off.  Limit the use of combs and brushes; use your bare fingers to pick through the tail strand-by-strand.  You don’t have to do this every day, but a couple times a month will help.  Benign neglect on a natural tail is helpful, but don’t go hacking at it with a brush later.  Remove any burrs, sticks, or foreign objects promptly, before they create a matted mess.  See Taming The Tail for more tips!

Feb 22: “What About Tack Part II”

Heidi:  I cleaned my bridles yesterday using this method and I really loved it! Using dish soapy water was so much better than dealing with the dumb spray cleaner that I have. I liked that my bits could soak while I cleaned, and the dish soap cut through the greasy sweat on the leather. I also melted my glycerine in a Tupperware. It looks a little funny and bubbly, though!

Anonymous:  I like the idea of using Shout, does it help get out the black rub marks from the saddle on the white pads? I never can get those to go go away!

A:  Shout does work well, and so does a paste with detergent, OxyClean, and a little water.  Though I have to admit, I have learned to get over a few black streaks on the girth area of my pads.  The area is covered by your leg…and at the end of the day with many horses to take care of, I tend to let the saddle pads slide.  So long as the visible part of the pad is sparkling clean, I don’t worry about the girth loops.

March 28  “Extreme Makeover: Mane Event“

Mischief Maker: So erm i have a question. are you tearing it out at the roots or do you ust break it off at the desired length? I usually use a pulling comb that is really skinny and i wrap my hair around it the pull it out that way. am i doing it wrong? lol thanks

A: Yes, I’m pulling it out at the roots (unless using the clipper blade). Watch the video, you can see I’m removing chunks of 10-inch hair by pulling it straight out. You can certainly use a metal mane comb and wrap it around– that’s how I did it for years! But I find the current method, without the comb-wrapping, a lot easier and faster. And no sharp, pointy comb teeth to cut your knuckles, either. 😀 As long as the mane ends up thin, short, and braidable, it doesn’t matter what comb you use or how you pull it.

Megan: OK, so if you are pulling the mane out by the roots, how do you get the mane at the length you want? You say to tease the mane to the length you want then pull, but if you are pulling it all out…I’m confused. I wrap it around the comb and have to make several passes up and down the mane to get a long mane short. I would love to know how to pull it to a desired length the FIRST time!

A:  Some of the mane you “pull” actually breaks at a shorter length, instead of ripping out at the roots.  Teasing it back frays the hair a bit, weakening it to break instead of pull completely out.  You still may have to go back and touch-up sections to even out length and thickness; it’s rare that I’ll get the ENTIRE neck done in one fell swoop.  But I can get it pretty close to what I want the first time, and then go back with my fingers and pull any long or thick pieces.

May 16:  “Studs“

Some great reader insights:

LisaB:  Great article. I love how in the beginning you state that every horse is different and you have to basically do trial and error with the horse. Anyway, you forgot another set of studs. The hex type of road studs. My whatever-maybe some draft-we think standardbred-Amish-reject loves the wider face of a hex type of road stud up front and then ones with the grass type of tip in the back. He’s very sure footed and with big feet and a flatter mover. He does not like ‘sticking’. Also, if your horse has an extravagant front end type of jump (knees up to the ears), you will almost think understudding him up front. If you think you’ll need a med. grass tip, go to a small grass tip. They need to ‘move’ a bit on landing.

Ouchmy:   My farrier recommend a dental pick to take out plugs and help clean stud holes, it is s wonderful tool to have! I ran cross country today and 6/8 of my plugs had fallen out..so not fun to deal with. If my horse hasn’t been out in a while, I typically clean and replace plugs the day before I leave for the show so things go smoothly before xc.

May 30  “Bridle Wise“

Lex: Ohhh, good timing! I have a question for you! so I took the mare I Part board to a clinic last week, and discovered that while she really likes her job, I’d like a bit more control of her. She does “grab the bit and run” or she crosses her jaw. For stadium and xc, she goes in a loose rig snaffle. She goes in a loose ring French link for her owner at home. At home, she’s not likely to “grab the bit and run”, but she does ignore half halts sometimes. And I’m still tryingto figure out when to half halt and leg, and when to stop messing with her and just leg. I’m debating on using a running martingale, or maybe a kineton noseband. It’s hard for me to get the same experience trying new equpiment at home, but I also don’t like the idea of trying new stuff at an event. Opinions? I’d love a Sunday tip about horse boots. I’m still trying to figure out what to put on her. And I wish i knew more about boots to have an idea of what ones were studied in the video on the USEA.

A:  Without knowing you or your horse, it’s very difficult to help you overcome your horse’s problems.  Crossing the jaw may be helped by a figure-8 noseband, but the root of the matter is likely that your horse doesn’t accept your aids (specifically, the bit).  A running martingale is useful for horses who fling their heads in your face approaching a jump; not so much for a horse that pulls.  I would recommend riding a lot out in the open, practicing your galloping half-halts and transitions, insisting that your horse listen to you NO MATTER WHAT.  If the horse won’t listen to you galloping on the flat, how do you expect her to listen when jumps are involved?  Don’t be afraid to “rev her up” a bit at home, to get her a little on the muscle like she’ll feel at shows.  Play around with different bits if you need to, but try to use the absolute minimum.  Please consult a good trainer who can watch you ride, and offer better advice.

I plan to do a topic on horse boots in the future, I just need to dredge up a bunch of boot styles to try!

There were several comments about the Mickelm Bridle.  I do not have any personal experience with it, though I am intrigued by its design.  I have heard a few positive reports, yet I remain a bit too skeptical to purchase one for myself.  At this point, my horses are fine in a normal bridle, so “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”  There is plenty of information about the bridle available, I would recommend a search on the Chronicle forums for first-hand reports.

– – – – – –

Thank you to all the loyal Jog-Up readers and commenters.  It was actually quite fun to read back through 21 weeks of topics– hard to believe I’ve been writing this long!  I have some good ideas for future articles– boot polishing, fitting horse boots and other tack, and an actual lesson on presenting/jogging the horse in hand.  As any groom knows, the list of things to be done is endless…so if your topic isn’t up yet, it will be eventually!

You’ve probably been busy following Bromont, but this weekend was a big event for Thoroughbred racing as well.  The two super mares once again proved their superiority, though they have yet to face each other.

Saturday, Rachel Alexandra looked like her 2009 self in the Fleur de Lis Handicap at Churchill Downs.  She drew off to win by ten lengths, with Calvin Borel already gearing her down at the wire.  Hopefully she has hit her stride again, and can aim for a meeting with Zenyatta.

Complete story from the Thoroughbred Times

Speaking of the amazing Zenyatta, she just ran her way into history with her 17th consecutive win (for those keeping score, she’s 17-0!).  It wasn’t easy, as St. Trinians ran a heck of a race herself.  But the big mare proved herself a true champion yet again, just managing to surge her way in front at the wire.  More story here from the Thoroughbred Times.

It will be a special day when the two finally meet.  Zenyatta looks absolutely unbeatable right now, but Rachel has proven she has more to offer.  Thanks to both their owners, the Mosses and Jess Jackson, for continuing to share both awesome horses with their fans.

Good girl! 

What’s your favorite eventing moment?  Why do you do this silly sport that wastes so much time, money, and can cause so much disappointment?

I don’t know about you, but I do it because there is one simple feeling you cannot create doing anything else.  It’s that moment when you blast through the finish line, pull up, pat your horse, and drop the reins.  The horse’s ears are up, eyes bright, head nodding, bursting with pride and accomplishment, telling the whole world “LOOK WHAT I JUST DID!  I’M AWESOME!”  When a horse says that, it always makes me smile– no matter if we just finished an Advanced course, or a first-time baby cross-country school. 

I just did a first-time cross-country school with a green mare last week.  She’s 8 y/o, OTTB, and sat in the field as a broodmare for three years (had two foals).  When I started riding her this winter, she was completely new at everything.  Leaving the barn was scary.  Passing by trees and rocks was scary.  Clumps of grass were scary.  And those terrifying jumps in the arena?  Incredibly scary.  She was spooky, reactive, and had no confidence in herself whatsoever. Getting her to walk over a pole on the ground took ten minutes of nervousness.

But you know what’s neat about this mare?  She tries her guts out.  All it takes is one “Good girl!” and a pat on the neck; her ears flick forward, her eyes focus, and she doubles her effort to do what you ask.  She’s incredibly sensitive to leg and hand aids, so I have to be careful to be gentle and tactful, never asking with too much pressure.  That day she walked over the pole, I told her “Good girl,” and came around again; her ears locked on it, she straightened her own body, and determinedly marched right over it.  I thought, “Hmm, she may make a good horse yet.”

Fast-forward a few weeks, she was still fairly spooky going near jumps in the arena, but she had gained a ton of confidence in me.  I started asking her to pop over low crossrails– she was very worried and confused the first attempt, but praise on landing was all she needed.  She learned jumping made me happy, and she became willing to try anything!  I guarded her confidence, never asking for too much too soon, as I know she’s still pretty fragile.  She worked up to low gymnastics, where I was impressed by her agility and boldness; often, the sea of rails makes many green horses back off, yet she attacked each new addition willingly.  I was encouraged.

It’s my belief that once a horse has the general concept of jumping understood (approach obstacle: lift legs, get to other side) it’s time to go out cross-country.  Cantering in a good rhythm, following a buddy over little logs does wonders for their confidence.  It’s much more natural for them, than jumping colored sticks off tight turns in an arena.  So, with low expectations, I took the green ex-broodmare out for her first cross-country school.  She had done lots of hacking over our back hills, crossing the creek; but she had never been away from home.  I figured she’d be a little nutty, but hopefully settle enough to jump some tiny logs and pop on and off a low bank.  Fellow EN writer Will.Groom.For.Food was kind enough to babysit us on her super steady prelim gelding.

As predicted, the mare was a little bit nervous in a new place.  There was some sideways trotting, bouncy cantering, and looking around.  But she settled quite quickly and began to enjoy herself.  My fears of her spooking at every jump, rock, and bush were unnecessary.  She hopped over the lowest 18″ logs with a bit of apprehension, but that was quickly replaced with enthusiasm.  Again, over every effort I praised her with big pats and “Good girl!”s.  Any tension in her body melted away, and she would try extra hard at the next one.  We moved on to the bigger 2′ logs, and her confidence kept growing.  She was incredibly fun to ride– naturally balanced beneath herself, very light in my hand, responsive and willing. 

We wandered throughout the cross-country course, picking off inviting beginner novice fences as we went.  Suddenly some novice fences looked do-able, so we tried them too.  The mare was jumping with gusto, attacking each new challenge and looking for the next.  We walked through the water, then on and off low banks.  Nothing fazed her anymore.  We ended up down at the coffin, where Will.Groom.For.Food had fun jumping her guy over some prelim stuff.  The mare was enjoying herself, so I figured we’d try to hop over the ditch.  She propped strongly the first time, but leapt over it like a deer.  Big pats, lots of praise.  Came around again, she locked on, broke from a trot to a canter four strides away, and cantered over it smoothly.  I looked at the training level half-coffin– the same ditch, two strides to a 2’9″ log, and decided to give it a try.  The mare handled it with ease, like she’d done it all her life.  I praised her immensely, but she already knew she was good.

We walked back to the trailers on a long rein.  The mare’s ears were fixed forward, eyes bright, strutting around like she owned the place.  She wasn’t just “a horse” anymore, she was a cross-country horse.  I’ve ridden at the Advanced level, I know the thrill of finishing a huge tough course… and yet the pride of a green novice horse still makes me smile just as big. 

That’s why I do this sport, for those simple moments of confidence when the horse has had as much fun as you did.  It’s not the ribbons, the scores, the glamor or glory…it’s the connection you build with a special creature who’s willing to do crazy things for you simply because you asked them to try. 

Guess what?  It’s Belmont Day! 

This year’s Triple Crown has been a bit of a dud, with the dull performance of Super Saver in the Preakness.  And this is one of the very few years when neither the Derby winner, nor the Preakness winner (Lookin at Lucky) make the trip to Belmont.  Despite the lack of Triple Crown hopeful excitement, the Belmont is always a special race.  It’s one of the few ultra-prestigous races left at a mile and a half…distance races are becoming increasingly scarce, especially over dirt, especially targeted for 3-year-olds. 

The Belmont field this year has lacked hype, but you may recognize a few names.  Ice Box finished third in the Derby, and Stately Victor won the Toyota Blue Grass Stakes at Keeneland.  Ice Box is trained by Belmont king Nick Zito, so he should be prime for a great race.  First Dude was full of run at the Preakness, leading from the wire, and just finishing second to Lookin At Lucky.  Experts say the Dude will love the distance, so keep an eye on that one.  WinStar has another horse entered in Drosselmeyer (how many top horses do they have??!!), but there may be questions about his feet and soundness.

The complete field:

Here’s hoping for a safe, fun, exciting race!  Tune in to ABC to watch; post time at 6:30pm EST. 

And, because it is THE GREATEST performance of all time:

As with most things, being a good groom requires extreme attention to detail.  One, you want the horse looking his best.  And two, you want to ensure horse and rider are SAFE.  Properly-fitted tack is important to achieve both those requirements.  Today we will discuss how to fit a bridle, with various bits and nosebands commonly seen in our sport.

Let’s start off with something simple: a plain snaffle bridle and cavesson noseband.  This is the most “traditional” headwear for jogs, and also what you’ll see on hunters.  The plain cavesson should be fitted about one or two fingers’-width below the cheekbone, high enough not to interfere with the bit ring.  An ordinary snaffle should create one or two wrinkles in the lips; but poke your finger in the mouth to be sure it sits in a good position.  Too high is uncomfortable, but so is too low (it can bang against the canines).

A plain cavesson (usually a padded crank) is standard for double-bridles.

Well-fitted snaffle with cavesson noseband              Double bridle with plain noseband

The most common bridle seen in eventing and dressage is the flash bridle.  The flash attachment helps keep the horse’s mouth closed, limiting his evasion to the rider’s aids.  Of course in an ideal world, the horse would always accept the bit with a smile…but there are times when the mouth yaws open in response to a “DO IT NOW!!!” rein aid (as in, steering for that skinny over –there–) and a flash can speed along the communication process.  Some people believe in starting ALL young horses in a flash, so that they never learn the habit of opening the mouth; others believe the flash is a “quick fix” to hide bad hands (there is some truth to that).  I personally prefer a flash because it also helps stabilize the bit in the mouth, limiting the risk of pulling a bit ring through.  And, in my opinion, because it flatters a lot of horses’ heads.

When fitting a flash, keep it HIGH, just under the cheekbones.  The flash should rest over the bone of the nose, not on the soft cartilage where it may interfere with breathing.  Fasten the cavesson tightly so that the flash attachment does not pull it downward over the bridge of the nose (a “broken” down noseband).  The buckle of the flash should rest above the horse’s nostril; cut off any excess strap that extends down to the chin.  Some people people fasten it “upside down” with the excess tucked under the cavesson loop; this is a quick-fix if you lose your keeper, but I much prefer it pointing downward.  Use a braiding rubberband for a keeper if necessary.  Always ensure there is no excess pressure under the chin– never buckle it below the bit.

 Nicely-fitted flash, high on bridge of nose. 

Often on event horses and jumpers, you will see a figure-8 noseband.  The figure-8 has the same principle as the flash: an added lower strap to keep the mouth shut. The fig-8 sits higher on the bridge of the nose, giving full room to the nostrils to expand (thus you see a lot of them on xc).  On some horses, it is more effective than a flash; perhaps because of the high fit.  It also helps some horses who lock and cross the jaw.  There are two styles: fixed-ring, and sliding cheek.  The fixed-ring is much easier to use, though fitting odd-sized heads can be an issue.  The sliding fig-8 can fit a wide variety of faces, but the loose straps are easy to lose…and difficult to adjust on a horse who flings his head impatiently.  As with the flash, you ideally want the buckles to end up between cheek and jaw (upper) and between nostril and mouth (lower).  If your fixed-ring does not fit, a saddler can probably shorten it for you.

Personally, I don’t think a figure-8 flatters most horses’ heads.  Only those with long, narrow faces seem to look better in a fig-8 than a flash.  Unless the horse really goes better in it, I much prefer a flash or plain noseband.  The fixed-ring fig-8 is designed to sit HIGH on the horse’s face– the ring is just a few inches below the eye, so the upper straps cross over the cheekbone.  Sometimes this rubs the cheekbones, so pay attention to any skin irritation and adjust the bridle accordingly.  The sliding fig-8 lacks the stability to cross the cheek, so it is usually adjusted just like a flash– directly under the cheekbones.

Well-adjusted Fixed Figure-8

Other nosebands: a drop noseband is also suitable for dressage.  It is fitted low on the bridge of the nose, and fastens only below the bit.  It can be more helpful than a flash at keeping the mouth closed, but has greater risk of interfering with breathing.  (On a personal level, I think they make horses’ faces look extremely long and ugly!  But if it works for you, who cares!)

Drop noseband

Lever or Crescent Noseband

Kineton Noseband                                                              

For jumping and xc, you may also see horses wearing a lever (or crescent) noseband; also good for keeping the horse’s mouth closed, perhaps useful on those that lockjaw and pull.  Kinetons are rarely seen anymore, but they can help give some “oomph” to your half-halt if the horse responds well to nose pressure.  And then there’s a whole variety of “combo-bits” with hackamores and the like.  Consult a professional for hands-on advice fitting specialty bits and nosebands.

Whatever bridle you use, remember the Pony Club rules of fitting:  Always have two holes above, and two holes below whatever buckle you use.  Accidents happen and bridles DO break, and you will need that extra buckle hole.  It also accounts for a variety of fittings– different-sized bit rings will necessitate lengthening or shortening the cheekpiece, even on the same horse’s head.  You never want to be on the LAST hole anywhere– punch more, or have the bridle shortened if needed.  For gags, 3-rings, and elevators, you may need pony-sized cheekpieces to accomodate the upper shank of the bit– it’s often too long for the average bridle on an average horse.

Bridles are getting increasingly fancy– with more padding and accessories than ever before.  Padded crowns can help some horses, but the most important aspect of any bridle is that it FITS and is kept clean.  Too-tight browbands pinch the ears; crusty foam and dried grass stuck to the flash can make lips raw.  I haven’t had much personal experience with bitless bridles or the new Micklem bridle, but there are many options for all sorts of horses.  Use whatever makes you and your horse most comfortable.

Central Kentucky is home to some stunning horse farms, and WinStar is one of them– you may recognize that name, as they own and bred 2010 Derby winner Super Saver.  Down scenic Pisgah Pike in Versailles, you have to be careful not to drive off the side of the road as you gawk at the magnificent splendor.  Elegant black four-board fence surrounds green lawns dotted with mares and foals.  The office entrance takes your breath away…a huge mansion beyond shimmering ponds accented with fountains.  If they were going for “WOW” factor, the designers certainly succeeded!

The stallion barn, home to outstanding sires like Distorted Humor and Tiznow, is no less fancy.  Visitors are welcomed into a grand waiting area filled with photos of the champion stallions.  Just inside the barn, is a center “stage” where the stallions are paraded for visitors’ inspection.  It’s difficult not to be impressed!

The actual breeding shed is a bit more workmanlike…no frills, but still no expense spared.  The main aisle and walkways are rubber.  Clean green padded mats protect the horses from walls, posts, and corners.  The breeding area itself has Polytrack for footing.  It’s definitely top of the line!

The breeding handlers and assistants were very courteous and professional.  At some farms, you (farm representative) have to hold the mare for teasing and washing.  At WinStar, it’s full-service…they take the mare from you at the door, and give her back when she’s done.  

At WinStar, they outfit the mare in a twitch, padded hind boots, and a neck hood.  This protects the stallion if he gets kicked, and spares the mare’s neck from his teeth.  Some farms skip the boots, and instead briefly hold up a foreleg to prevent her from kicking.  Most mares stand very well, but with million-dollar stallions you have to take every precaution!  There are about five assistants to help with the breeding, each with a specific (and not usually glorious!) job.  All are outfitted with vests and helmets for safety (and likely insurance purposes). 

During all this, the farm representative (me) stands idly by watching or chatting with bystanders (managers, other farm drivers).  Being female, in a very male-dominated field, this can be a bit of an awkward situation.  Most farms are welcoming enough, but there are times when guys avoid eye contact, or mumble something about the weather.  To spare them embarrassment and uncomfortable silence, I’ll check email (or EN) on my phone and appear very busy.  At WinStar, though, the managers were quite pleasant.  I mentioned I was an eventer, and we had an interesting conversation about Rolex and event horse breeding.   

About five minutes later, the process is over and I get the mare back to take home.  Two weeks later, the vet will ultrasound her and we’ll know if she’s in foal for next year.  Fingers crossed!   

For anyone coming to Lexington for the WEG, WinStar should be on your list of farms to visit.  Trust EN to be your complete travel guide, we will give you more famous farms to check out later this summer!